Progressives work great for straight walled pistol cases. Loved my Dillon SDB. Never bothered me to do rifle rounds on my Rock Chucker because i don't shoot nearly as many.
Progressives work great for straight walled pistol cases. Loved my Dillon SDB. Never bothered me to do rifle rounds on my Rock Chucker because i don't shoot nearly as many.
"If everyone is thinking the same thing it means someone is not thinking"
"A rat became the unit of currency"
I have a Hornady Lock and Load due to getting a great deal. Maybe at some point I'll get a Dillon, but I've been able to 3d print a case feeder and other items so all in I'm about $400. I just couldn't pass up that deal during the middle of the pandemic.
Everything I own other than the items I have built myself I bought because it was a deal. I keep telling myself one day I am going to buy something because I want that exact one. I have a LNL. No case feeder. You wouldn't happen to have a link to the printable pdf would you. I have a buddy who has a 3d printer and he cannot use it to save his butt. Maybe I will ask him to give it a go. Now that I think about it I am still waiting on the dillon powder adjustment knob he was going to print me.
Stop being blinded by your own ignorance.
This is the original: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2488944
And this person reworked it a bit: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4893734
There are other ones to build the hopper, but I went with a commercial one I found on craigslist for $100.
I've printed quite a bit of stuff on it for the Hornady, including the primer piece when it broke. Most of the stuff is on Thingverse, just search for Hornady.
Thank you ddeck22. I will check it out.
Stop being blinded by your own ignorance.
Couple of years older here, but been using 3 550s (large & small primer and 1 for specific rifle use) but still keep single stage for miscellaneous use (bullet sizing, pulling, case forming). Easier to control manually advancing stages than the auto versions (650 & up).
...Speak softly & carry a big stick...
I bought my hornady lock and load back when they first came out. I paid less than $500 with a case feeder. I see the case feeder goes for $500 now. You certainly got a deal on yours. I’ve been happy with mine but I really don’t use it as much as I’d like.
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Facebook marketplace. A newer lock and load with 16 bushings, a 40 cal powder expander, two powder cops with many other extras. It sounded like the person got it 5 years ago for $100, so at $300 he was making out. At that time last year, new ones were going for $600 and hard to find.
If you have the access to the 3d printer still, you should check out this:https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...ullet-Collator
There are modifications to make it into a brass collator/feeder. I have the other one that ddeck22 mentioned & just built the above bullet collator. I intend to replace the thingiverse case feeder with Tyler's.
I like green. I use the RCBS pro 2000's. Now they are up to the pro chucker 7. Dillon is the Cadillac of presses though. Great presses.
If you go the Dillon get the 750 and be done with it.
to crank out ammo....case feeder, bullet feeder, invest in extra tool heads makes it
easier to change calibers, to add more autodrive ($$$)
Got all kinds of Progressives, old Hornady Pro-7's, Hornady Projectors, LNL-AP
Dillons, Stars, etc.
They all have their Pro's and Con's
They all have their followers
They all have issues
They all have to be fine tuned
They all work
They all make a completed round
I'm not brand loyal..
The Dillon you'll have to get extra tool heads which
makes changing calibers easier ($$$) of course shell plates (holders)
Hornady LNL-AP you use a bushing system insert dies in the bushing
insert it in the press, basically twist n lock, shell plates needed also
Lee -- I can-not comment on as I haven't used one
RCBS -- same as Lee
Now you can get case feeders / bullet feeders for them.
Then you have case prep, cleaning, crimped primers removal, trimming, etc.
Dillon sales a case trimmer for the press ($$$)
How you prep your cases is your choice:
Wet Tumble ( DIY Thumbler) Dry..
Decap.. either just use a decapping die or if you want to size / decap you could
go the Lee way, or just size and then do trim / crimp removal
(if you brass is not that dirty decap / clean)
Remove crimp in needed
Some prime on press, some off press others hand prime (old Lee Round Tray)
trim, then load
the crimp removal is a one n done process
So fo me
Sort
Thumble
Decap /remove crimp (if there)
Size
Trim
prime // load
I do everything in "batch mode" unless working up loads or Target
then it's to the single stage.
For 45ACP, 38 Spl --- Stars
My old 70's Rock Chuckers still going strong
and the "Nutcrackers"
just a thought...
-Rock
I have a Lee Loadmaster that I bought from a person on here. I find I use it more like a turret press with rifle rounds than any other way. I feel it's a Pretty versatile option since you can get them cheap or free when someone gets upset with them. I bought a cast breech lock from Lee a couple years ago when they were " factory second " I'm convinced I'll be using Lee equipment for my entire reloading life.
It's kinda fun to take your press you load one rifle round at a time with and make it load 5 pistol brass at once.
I do enjoy rifle on the single stage for quality reloading time
Lake Havasu City... Born and raised
Rifle is a different animal than pistol rounds. I do two passes, one with a tool head that sizes and deprimes then the Dillon trimmer.
After that they get the load pass.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |