The new bucks are different than the old ones and much easier to Resharpen.
The new bucks are different than the old ones and much easier to Resharpen.
I carry 4 knives. An older Spyderco Endura with ATS 55, A Spyderco Resilience with 8Cr13MOV, a Benchmade with CPM M4 and an Opinel. I don't really worry about the steel. I have a few knives with the so called "SUPER STEELS" that suppose to be good.
I have cheap knives to some slightly pricey knives.
One custom knife. Cheap fixed blade, to medium priced fixed blades.
Still don't really worry about it.
According to this source, the different 400 series steels Buck used over the years are very close to the same with some minor changes.
You may find this reference interesting. https://www.bladehq.com/cat--Best-Kn...3368#400series
Chill Wills
If it aint broke don't fix it right? I have old knives that I owned before I started making knives in 2007. Those lower grade alloys are still more than adequate for the things most of us cut on a regular basis. Higher grade alloys allow us custom makers to tailor make one off blades for very specific purposes. Some people get into the weeds when they start cutting nails and chopping cinder blocks. Those are parlor tricks to impress people who don't understand blade geometry. You can take a low grade alloy, grind it with cold chisel geometry, & chop 16 penny nails in half all day long. Take that knife and try to cut stuff with it and you'll find that it doesn't cut well at all. My point is that there is a lot more to a knife than the steel its made of. You can use the most expensive, highest grade alloy on the market but if you don't heat treat it properly, temper it to the proper hardness, & grind it to the proper geometry it probably wont perform any better than that ol' Buck you've been carrying for years. However, it is possible to use those alloys to perform very specific jobs very well. I sent a test knife to an independent tester. He cuts cardboard in 12" strips one at a time. The steel was CPM-10V and he quit when he got to 5,280 strips. Thats right, he cut a mile of cardboard and the blade was still cutting. Now I'm not claiming that it was any kind of mojo on my part. Crucible made the steel and anybody can buy it. All I did was heat treat it and grind it properly. Cheers.
Welcome to Cast Boolits Darrin. I own one of Darrin's Knives. A large camp/chopper in 1075 steel. A craftsmen who knows his stuff!
If liars pants really did catch on fire, watching the news would be a lot more fun!
I guess those of us that have a habit of collecting guns also collect knives. ive got a few old and new but seem to carry and use a boker Kalashnikov automatic the most the AUS8 blade gets super sharp and holds an edge you can shave with very well but if I want something smaller in my pocket its usually the amber case trapper but for a folder in the belt pouch its a buck 112 or the 110, and if a bigger blade is what im wanting to carry its the buck 119. but all this talk of knives got me looking around for what new might be out there and came across USA made Ka-Bar 10" chopper blade for $40 that I'm on the fence of pushing the button and having it come in the mail box in a few days
I have a $2 jack knife made in China on my key chain. I keep it sharp and it is great. Other than that I use knives in the kitchen. Have some pretty good ones: Chicago Cutlery and some made in Japan.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |