Or Lyman Ideal 452488 Vs 452486. I could imagine that this has been discussed before, but I wonder what advantage one bullet might have over the other. Only difference seems to be one vs. two lube grooves.
Or Lyman Ideal 452488 Vs 452486. I could imagine that this has been discussed before, but I wonder what advantage one bullet might have over the other. Only difference seems to be one vs. two lube grooves.
I had to look the 163 up to see what it looked like. I don't really see any advantage that either one has over the other. I have the #68 and the #130 and both shoot well. The 130 cuts a little cleaner hole in the target.
You might shoot both just to see what your pistol prefers. Back in the day the 68 and 130 were favorites of Bullseye shooters. I sometimes suspect theres a reason for this?
That second groove will give you more lube. That's the only real advantage I can see.
I've got both a #68 and a #130. I've also got the Lyman 452488, as well as a Ohaus 185 of the same design.
I much prefer the RCBS 201KT. I've been looking at the Accurate 45-210A which appears to be a pretty close copy of the 201KT.
I'd really like to find a 180-185 gr boolit like the #68. The Accurate 45-185H appears to be as close as you can get.
I've got the Lyman 452389 and it cuts some of the cleanest holes I've seen. Best I've seen in .45 ACP is with the NOE 155 gr SWC. Those look like you used a paper punch.
NRA Benefactor.
FWIW: I was shooting H&G #130's on paper today,it's been a few years break from that boolit for me.
The holes were not as clean cut as I thought I remember...? Accuracy was excellent up to 75 meters. But the slightly ragged holes made me wonder a bit. Could be my memory or the paper or BHN 8...?
I use the Lyman#452488 for my light target loads. I load a very light charge of Bullseye, so I hafta use a light spring (11lb) in my 1911's to get it to function. Accuracy is Excellent, except the bullet doesn't stabilize until it gets past 40ft, otherwise it just tears a hole in the paper.
but at 50-75ft it cuts Beautiful round holes. been casting/reloading it for almost 60yrs.
I'm also very fond of the RCBS 45-201-KT. Load it to just under max, It Functions in anything and cuts clean holes in paper. It's the bullet for my old GLOCK 21 w/Wolf bbl.
And I've always got 10-12 boxes of #452374 loaded MAX. Just for banging away.
I believe in HARD bullets for auto-loading handguns. Far fewer hang-ups on feeding.
I have a 1cav Lyman #452460 that I cast samples when blending alloys. I save them up, until I have enough for a box. Then load them in .45 S&W cases for Cowboy Loads.
I HATE auto-correct
Happiness is a Warm GUN & more ammo to shoot in it.
My Experience and My Opinion, are just that, Mine.
SASS #375 Life
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Thank you very much for this,Walks.
I was zeroing a pistol and only shot paper at around 40 ft indeed. I then moved further and further while shooting clays on the berm,confirming zero. I didn't shoot paper further out at all.
I will check this tomorrow,very interesting. My #130 is going 1000 fps though. But this makes sense, I'm also testing really soft alloy just because I've never shot this soft before.
#130 is my only H&G mold,a dream to cast with. Accuracy has been good.
Last edited by Petander; 05-11-2019 at 07:44 PM.
bullet drops at aprox 200 gr with wheel weight lead .Coated with hi-tek
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |