Can you load lite .38 Special loads in .357 Magnum brass for use in the lever or will there be to much pressure build up and blow the case? The .357 case load so much smoother in my lever action rifle.
Thanks in advance!
Can you load lite .38 Special loads in .357 Magnum brass for use in the lever or will there be to much pressure build up and blow the case? The .357 case load so much smoother in my lever action rifle.
Thanks in advance!
It will be fine. I've done it quite a few times.
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Lite loads and to much pressure don’t go together. Lite loads means less pressure. I doubt you will get so low but there’s a point where you have to worry about enough pressure to have the bullet clear the barrel. If it’s a load from a manual you will have no issues.
I have a buddy who is the cheapest human alive. He bought a Marlin 1894 357, when they first came
out. He bought / buys the cheapest bulk cast 158Gr RN he can find. Then he hits all the manuals to
figure out what powder he can get the most loads out of. Then he loads a few and starts backing them down. When he reaches the point that they don't have enough pressure to seal against the
chamber, he takes it back up a notch. He doesn't hunt just shoots paper targets. He is fun to watch,
He nailed a target to a beech tree and when he shot boolit bounced back and took him in the shins.
Another thing on extreme under loading, usually is not uniform ignition and if gun was scoped and
benched, it wouldn't group very well. One thing I can say gun cycles slick with 357 & 158gr RN load.
just be careful you dont get one stuck in the barrel.
As long as you stick with 38 data you shouldn't have one stick. With that being said when you test some if they are on the low end of the chart I'd have a good rod handy just in case.
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In terms of "loading" I foresee no problems, as long as your loads are as in published manuals/load guides. A friend reduced loads with a powder (I think it was 231) with his reduced load fear of a bullet stuck in barrel replaced with a detonation which came pretty close to blowing up the rifle. One "note" I might add, too, is for you to determine if .38 S&W Special cases, if used, will chamber. I tried .38 S&W Special cartridges in a .357 chambered Marlin years back, and jammed it up pretty good. Newer models chamber both...mine predated this, and as stated, necessitated a trip to gunsmith to free action. (Free action -- NOT a free repair!)
Lastly, I am a bit confused by your, " load lite .38 Special loads in .357 Magnum brass " statement. One extremely important factor is pressure -- our friend or foe -- governed by volume in the case. The less volume, generally, the higher the pressure -- why bullet seating depth is ever so important, and the admonitions to always load published data at a percentage less than printed. Even for big'uns, like the .30-'06 Springfield, when using military brass -- which affords less volume than commercial -- slight load reduction is the way to go.
I'd suggest using LIGHT .357 MAGNUM (published) loads. You'll accomplish the same result, hopefully with the warm and fuzzy feeling that what you will elect is SAFE!
BEST!
geo
How about the cowboy loads for the 357 or trail boss very light loads.
Do it all of the time. As stated, stay either with published 38sp loads or be careful that all exit the barrel
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I use a light load in magnum brass for my Marlin 1894CS (.357). 3.5 grains of W231 under a RCBS 38-150 SWC. This load gives me +/- 900 FPS.
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My experience has been that .38 Special +P charges when loaded in .357 brass work well in revolvers and lever rifles, the somewhat heavier charge compensating for increased case volume.
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I use a 357 case with 5.4 grains of AP 70, behind a 180 grain bullet for my Marlin and it's good out to 100 yds. You could do the same with Universal, Unique, or SR7625, .
I was using a 357 case with 5 grains of Trailboss but that was just too slow, like, well under 1000 fps.
Hard work made me what I am today,
Broken and broke
******************************
Bob
I load down 357 cases in my rifle as like stated they are much smoother and also I think its probably better for the chamber. May be open to debate but firing shorter cases over time in a chamber may create some issues. If they don't that's fine, but it doesn't hurt to stay with the longer cases.
DEP
only use 357 brass in my win trapper 38 dont cycle easily . 7g of true blue with a plain base boolit of 158gr works well as a mid range load.
I load my 357's loaded down with an H&G #39 (158gr rn) and 5.0 gr WW231 and a Magnum primer. Never chron'od but supposed to be around 1000 fps.
38's are 4.0 gr WW231.
I shoot them in my Interarms Rossi 92.
Use your 357 brass and load them lighter.
That's why we cast and reload!
Last edited by FISH4BUGS; 10-22-2018 at 02:53 PM.
Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.
What is lowest velocity you want to reload to - for the word "lite" because this word is analogous to the word "good" When posting be more specific!Can you load lite .38 Special loads in .357 Magnum brass for use in the lever?
Regards
John
What about .38Spl. loads in a .38Spl case, but with the bullet seated out to .357 length? I'm sure it will feed better, but will it still get the dreaded .38Spl dirt ring in the chamber?
Speedo66, I don't know if you'll get the dirt ring, but with the possible exception of the Keith SWC, you will miss the crimp groove.
Hard work made me what I am today,
Broken and broke
******************************
Bob
Loading long will improve accuracy, but the crud ring will still form.
If the rifle is chambered .357, stick to .357 brass and load down to whatever you're comfortable with. Wish I HAD a .357 lever, but I long ago lost count of the light-loaded .357 rounds that I've shot thru my revolvers for practice and plinking. 158 gr. Delta swaged (i.e. soft) SWC and 2.5 grains of Red Dot. Same load of Bullseye would be fine, too. Those loads would still be nicely subsonic in an 18" barrel.
I also do a +P+ .38 Special P.D. load for my S&W 60 snubbie. That one goes into trimmed-down .357 brass, because .357 brass is stronger in the head area.
N.B. The story that military brass, whether .30-06, .308, or 5.56x45 is heavier than commercial is a myth. I've measured it myself. Tedious, but process control gaging is what I did before I retired. The difference of lot averages is less than the variance within any given lot of either.
Cognitive Dissident
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |