m/s is a pain in the ****.
Why not do fps??
Nobody knows m/s and couldn't be bothered converting it.
m/s is a pain in the ****.
Why not do fps??
Nobody knows m/s and couldn't be bothered converting it.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
hehe i had to google it to convert it.
850 FPS
I don't know why people work on m/s either, for as long as i have been shooting, it's always been fps too
I have been in touch with Joe about giving Hi-Tek a go, he doesn't like the stuff i'm using and hi-tek should go further for less. I think the application of Hi-Tek will be less wasteful too, experimentation will be in my future
Tazza,
I have no ill feeling towards the stuff you are using at all. It is courses for horses.
Yes, the Hi-Tek will work out far cheaper than what you are using, and, if calculations are correct, the Hi-Tek would be about 1/4 the price what you are paying for current product.
You already are in contact with very experienced people who use the Hi-Tek, so I don't think you will have problems. Help is very close at all times.
My consultancy fee just went up...
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
Yeah. In OZ we use metric, but all things related to casting, reloading is in imperial.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
Joe - i know you didn't have any ill feelings about the coating i'm using, you were just passing on your knowledge on the subject. You have far more experience with coatings than i do, so it's very good advise, i really do appreciate the time you took to talk to me about it.
Trevor was the one that told me to look you up, so looks like he beat grem.... to the punch this time
I'm sure with all the knowledge around here, i won't have any problems sorting out any potential problems that may come up.
Joe
You know; I'll consult for free. But I probably would not put in the time Treavor does for you. After all, sometimes, you get what you pay for. But then a Sig is no more accurate or dependable than a gun you will pay $100 less for. Didn't mean to insult you guys who paid the $100, but it's the truth.
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
And now the madness begins!!!!!!!!!
Boolits !!!!! Does that mean what I think it do? It do!
I'm going to admit to some ignorance in the category of sub sonic loads in rifle. I've never shot one in my rifles. I got close once with the 45-70. I can understand how they would help prevent leading, especially with lower BHN lead.
Petander
If I read that correct you getting 1 1/2 " groups at 300 meters. Wow that's 328 yards. Even with the good bullets I'll bet you do a good bit of work on the cases, too. Your making me jealous.
If you can get that with cast let me know. Really need an excuse to buy a new mold.
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
I just ordered a jar of the Hi-Tek powder. One question: how badly does this stuff stick when cooking? We have an electric oven in our basement and I thought about using it if that would be safe.
NRA Endowment Member
Armed people don't march into gas chambers.
If you use that oven for food do not use it for hi-tek! As far as the sticking you don't have to worry about it if you don't get your coating too thick and you do the mid bake tray shake. Read the insstructions several times before you start. You may have to go to wal mart and buy a small oven to do your hi tek in (convection works the best)
Boolits !!!!! Does that mean what I think it do? It do!
Elkins45
What Slide said....
I have coated too thick more times than I like to think about. At first, was trying for a jacket on the bullet. Which was the wrong way. This is a baked on dry lube. And they do stick worse with a thick coat. All it takes for the first coat is a little. You can still see the lead through the color after the drying process. You do not need a thick coat for this stuff to work. But sticking together has never been a big problem for me. I do occasionally get some which separate with no problem. When you put them in the oven the coating needs to be dry. Starting out, sometimes we get in a hurry. This is a very thin coating. One of it's advantages. I hardly ever do the "take the tray out half way through the time, shake it and turn it around" as some do. But it is a good idea to maintain the uniform color and unstick any that might have stuck together.
You sound like me, a guy who likes to use what he has on hand to do something. I'm about to fix my riding mower for the umpteen time since I bought it and was going to look through some nuts and bolts I've saved up over the years to do it with so I wouldn't have to go buy some. Using you electric oven with no air circulation can work just not as well.
If your in a hurry to start; want to get off to a good start and want your color to look good a small, $100 and under, convection oven from some place is the thrifty way to start. If you want to coat large amounts at one time you will probably want something bigger later or outfit a regular oven like you have in your basement with convection. If you don't mind waiting a while start looking through thrift stores and yard sales to find a used convection oven. But plug it up and make sure the fan works. I started Hi Tek with a small one tray used yard sale convection oven that I bought for $15. My bullets weren't the best looking but shot fine.
Guys
This oven question has brought up something that I was thinking about some time ago. I am by far not a "prepper". But I do have on hand a fair amount of emergency food and water, medical supplies and other stuff for some situations that might happen. If we had an event that caused us to loose electricity for a long period of time, talking many months or years, and couldn't bake bullets with it. What would you do?
I can cast over an open fire and have plenty of lead to do it with. I have learned how to make black powder and how to procure the ingredients. By the way, the home made powder works good in big shells 44 mag, 45 colt and probably 45-70. Haven't tried it in the 45-70 yet. It's just dirty stuff. I have figured out a way to reuse primers. And I have on hand some of the wax/grease lubes. I just don't want to use them. How could we bake Hi Tek over an open fire or some wood stove or something?
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
Once you've used an oven for curing Hi-Tek don't even think about using it for food! My little oven smells from the stuff!
Avenger, it's an interesting question. You're always experimenting so I think you should try it and let us know, but I reckon it would be pretty tricky to hold a consistent temperature. Maybe one of those small wood-fired bakers' ovens would work? Again, temperature control would be the issue but at least it would be an enclosed heating area.
Will I have finally finished my oven. It is an 600mm kitchen oven that I picked up from Gumtree for $50. Had very little use but a dead cooling fan motor, fix that and added a $20 PID temperature controller. Re-wire the whole lot so only the heater ring around the fan is connected. Now the front switch has two settings, 1. fans on, 2. fans and heating element. Thermocouple will sit just about the tray of bullets.
Well I have about two months before I can start another experiment. Too many irons in the fire.
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
looking to move from powder coating to hi-tek does hi-tek offer a sample pack of colors to try out or what colors work the best i think i read somewhere on here that the metalic colors coated easier?
Contact Donny at Hi-Performance bullet coatings. He has a post right above.
Boolits !!!!! Does that mean what I think it do? It do!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |