Hi guys.
I purchase a few 100ct bags of .357 Starline brass and was wondering if you guys size this stuff before priming or is it good to go?
Hi guys.
I purchase a few 100ct bags of .357 Starline brass and was wondering if you guys size this stuff before priming or is it good to go?
I ALWAYS size new brass....
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I always run an expander into the case mouth to insure they are round. Then the cases can be deburred properly if there are artifacts on the case mouths.
I never size new brass as long as it will chamber.
Reducing its diameter with a FL die and pulling and the expander back through it is unnecessary working of the brass.
EDG
Every of brass before its fed into one of machines is sized, the primer pocket gets uniformed, which includes a canfer, the inside of the primer pocket is funneled, then the open end gets tapered inside and out.
Yeah size them
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The last time I bought some new brass was back in 1965. I had not been able to find any 44 mag dropped on the ground at the local range. I had bought a ruger super blackhawk and wanted to shoot it, so I ordered some herters brass. I did not resize it, but I did debur it. I still have some of that brass, but my brother has the gun.
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I learnt the hard way to resize and cut to length all of my new brass.It will save you problems later.I resize,chamfer and deburr and check the flash holes.
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New brass can have dings or other issues from shipping and handling. ( once watched a gy in cabellas drop a bag of 45-90 starline back on the shelf it fell on the floor and he ran over it wit the cart not seeing it). The size shape and length of the cases have an affect here to. I size all new brass just to make sure everyting is right. Before doing anything else it then gets trimmed if needed chamfered and deburred flash holes deburred and primer pockets uniformed. Before a primer is seated. On bottle necked cases the shoulder may be log for your rifles chamber sizing takes care of this. On straight walled cases they may not be as straight as you want or may be an oval instead of round.
Size it before loading, even if it's brand new Starline brass.
If for no other reason, do it for consistency sake. You can't expect to get the same amount of case tension from new brass from piece to piece if you don't. I also check the trim lengths at this point, so I don't find any surprises later.
Here's what Starline has to say about it.
http://www.starlinebrass.com/faqs/
Starline Reloading-Tips-and-Tricks:Does one need to full-length size brass prior to loading?
Generally speaking, Starline cases require no resizing prior to loading. Due to variances in diameter of different bullet types, it is a good practice to size the case only as far down as the bullet seating depth. When full length sizing is required, it will be noted in the box with the brass. The only Starline cases requiring full length sizing prior to loading are the .454 Casull, .458 SOCOM, and sometimes the .45 Colt(Depending on the bullet diameter to be used).
http://www.starlinebrass.com/article...ps-and-Tricks/
New Starline brass varies quite a bit in my experience. Some (tumbled & lubed) pieces of brass will take a lot of effort to size, while some will size quite easily. I can clearly feel the difference through the press handle from one piece to the next.Starline Reloading-Tips-and-Tricks
New brass can be harder to size, prime and seat bullets in than fired brass at times because the brass may be lacking lubrication. This happens due to the brass being stripped clean and polished. Our third tip is to try tumbling your new cases in used media for half an hour before reloading. The powder residue in the tumbling media will add just enough lubrication to the brass to ease the loading process. The other option is using a spray lube.
I have found quite a bit of variance from case to case in new un-sized Starline 357 and 44 Magnum brass that I've purchased... If it was shipped, you may also need to fix some squish damage from the shipping and handling as well.
I'll always size my new brass before loading it, and recommend that others do the same. I know you can often get away with just loading new brass, but after sizing it and seeing the inconsistencies, I'll continue to size it before I use it.
Sizing brand new brass helps create quality ammunition that will give consistent and repeatable results. It's the difference between being a hand loader, and someone who's just making stuff that goes bang.
-Bullwolf
I size even on first reloading. I also process all my rifle
brass for uniformity to start with a uniform baseline.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |