Lee PrecisionWidenersSnyders JerkyReloading Everything
Inline FabricationMidSouth Shooters SupplyRepackboxTitan Reloading
RotoMetals2 Load Data
Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: Lyman 358395

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    central ky
    Posts
    129

    Lyman 358395

    Just bought one of these molds and from what I have read, you need to have a separate heat source to keep the hollow base pin hot between pours. If that's true, what does everyone use to accomplish that goal ?
    Thanks, Dennis

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy zubrato's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    415
    From what I've read, most stick HP/HB pins in the melt to get them up to temp. Great catch on the mold, been looking for one myself!
    Recycle, Reuse, Reload.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    TCFAN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Missouri Ozarks
    Posts
    1,139
    I pre heat my 358395 on a hot plate while I wait for the lead to melt. Then I just cast fast and have no problem with the hollow base pin which is large compared to a hollow point pin. I have cast thousands of these hollow base wadcutters.......Terry

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    central ky
    Posts
    129
    zubrato,
    One on Ebay right now.
    Dennis

  5. #5
    Le Loup Solitaire
    Guest
    I used to have to heat the pin for a hollow base 41 mag wadcutter. I made a holder out of a wooden base and some coat hanger wire that was twisted into a "coil"...into which the pin was held. The base was weighted with a couple of ingots. When the pin was threaded into the coil I would heat the pin with a propane torch. It was a crude setup and a slow process, but it worked. it was the only way that I could keep the pin up to temp so that it would not cause wrinkles. LLS

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    central ky
    Posts
    129
    Seems like that could get expensive, burning a torch continuously during a casting session.
    Dennis

  7. #7
    Banned

    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    soda springs Id.
    Posts
    28,088
    you could make the same thing to dip the pin in your lead pot if you kept a pretty constant level of alloy in it.
    once the pin is up to temp and every thing works freely you might be able to cast quickly enough to keep the pin hot enough with the alloy to not need the extra heat.
    probably wanna run the alloy a bit warmer too.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    central ky
    Posts
    129
    Been casting with the new to me mold for 2 days. The pin and the mold are no problem to keep up to temperature once they get hot. It's just slower casting being a single cavity with the extra steps involved.
    Dennis

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master bedbugbilly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    MI (summer) - AZ (winter)
    Posts
    5,111
    sealer - I have never cast with that mold/size - but as you found out, when your mold is up to heat as is the base pin, it shouldn't be a problem. My molds with base pins are primarily Lyman/Ideal 575 molds for casting several different designs of boolits for .58 cal. rifled muskets. One of the molds I've been using for over 50 years and all I've ever done is place the base pin in the mold and set it on my gas hot plate so the wood handle on the base pin is away from the heat/flame. By the time I'm ready to pour, I may have one pour where the skirt is not completely filled. After that first pour, it's never been a problem. Using a mold with a base pin does give you and extra step but once you get your cadence going, keeping a base pin hot shouldn't be an issue.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master Forrest r's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Posts
    2,092
    The lyman 358395 makes a lllooooooonnnnnnggggg bodied button nosed bullet.

    [IMG][/IMG]

    I have 14 different hb molds, wc's/swc's/fn's & shoot then in anything from a 9mm to the 45acp. The 358395 really shines in my custom 1 in 10 twist 38spl/357 bbl's. I don't know what alloy you're casting those hbwc's with. I like to use a alloy around 9bhn that is high in tin and low in antimony.

    Enjoy you're hbwc's

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    central ky
    Posts
    129
    Yes, I noticed that the bullet was very long.
    Dennis

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check