Part of the 10mm club!!

[GLL]

S&W 610


Jerry

[Love Life]

Barry- Outstanding write up and I thank you for it.I took all the DE reviews with a grain of salt when it came to describing issues. Most of those issues were with the 1st run of DE's, and as you have pointed out were really non issues.

The one I put on layaway is the newer model one. I can't wait.

Jerry-That is just plain wrong. I looked around at 610's, but they just didn't do it for me this time. I like the DE better. For shame!

[gunfan]

I have one of the 6 1/2" barreled S&W Model 610 revolvers (1991 vintage.) These are WONDERFUL "hunters" and can handily harvest deer at reasonable ranges (110 yards or less.)

Don't underestimate the cartridge's ability to take deer and Black Bear. At 25-35 yards, you can take a "Blackie" without too much effort.

The 10mm is a truly GREAT cartridge!

Scott

[subsonic]

Yes, the 10mm is a great round! If the writers hadn't proclaimed it to be so terrible, it would likely be the most common round instead of the .40. Google how many threads on various forums are about trying to get more power from the .40.

Longshot is a powder that would also be worth looking into.

If you search old Glocktalk forum threads, McNett from DoubleTap had a lot of good R&D threads where he worked with various powders in the 10 (he's a big fan!). IIRC, there was pressure data as well.

As far as clothing requiring heavier boolits... Clothing plugs hollow points and INCREASES penetration. If you're worried about it, you should choose somethin like PowerBall or FTX ammo.

[subsonic]

10mm->IT'S THE NEW .44 SPECIAL!

[BarryinIN]

10mm->IT'S THE NEW .44 SPECIAL!

Ya know, there is a lot to that.
Their fans are similar in support of the cartridges.

[Adam10mm]

Pundits have advanced the claim that the 10mm as a hunting or service caliber is no better than the 357 Magnum. Nonsense! The 10mm at minimum splits the difference between the 357 and 41 Magnums, and given its frontal area and projectile mass (using the 200 grainers) is closer to the 41.

The .357 will have better SD than the 10mm, simply due to it being slightly smaller in diameter. Sectional density aside, I refer to them as near ballistic twins. If you like wheelguns, get a .357. If you like autos, get a 10mm. A four inch revolver is comparable to a 5 inch auto. The revoler has the chamber separate from the barrel and the 4 inch barrel is a full 4 inches. The auto with a 5 inch barrel has a chamber 1.275" long included in that 5 inch measurement, so it's an effective 5-1.275" = 3.725" barrel on the auto.

Now with that in mind, the 10mm in a 3.725" effective barrel can push a 180gr bullet to 1300fps safely. That's pretty frickin' amazing if you ask me. The 357 can do that in a 4 inch barreled revolver.

My 10mm is an aluminum frame 1911 Commander. I shoot the snot out of it. No issues with frame battering or cracking. I don't shoot weak ammo either. 180gr @ 1150fps is my plinker load (207 PF), 1250fps is my carry load, and 1300fps is my deer/bear load.



Unique is a decent powder in the 10mm. I prefer WSF for lead. Think of it as a ball equivalent to Unique, ie same performance but meters much better. Low smoke and very boolit friendly. A great small game load is 6.0gr WSF behind a 175-180gr anything. The best full power powder is Longshot.

LSWCs around 175gr are great. Lee's 175gr TC mould is a great boolit and I've shot the daylights out of those. I've cast a few Lee 145gr SWCs that dropped at 152gr. Shot over 7.5gr WSF for 1180fps for squirrels. Accurate enough at 30y for headshots with a tree for the backstop. I keep Longshot for hunting and defense loads. All my plinkers and small game ammo is loaded with WSF.

Remember the 10mm's name is the 10mm Automatic. There's nothing magnum about it. Keep it that way.

[msp2640]

I'm a fan as well of the 10mm, owning a S&W 1076 and a newer Kimber Stainless Target II. AA #9 is what I use mostly and stick to the 175-180gr bullets. The Smith shoots great with both cast and jacketed, still working with the Kimber on a decent cast load. I don't shoot heavy loads thru either, as I can't see the need to, since neither are hunting or carry guns for me. Some of the last loads I shot thru both were 200 gr LFNs (lightly loaded) that ejected brass onto the shooting bench, as I had hoped. The cement slab our club's benches are on, tend to chew up ejected brass and 10 brass is not always cheap or easy to find. I put a older box of Fed FMJ 180s thru the Kimber and the brass was landing 15+ feet away. The only thing I've noticed, is that the Kimber seems to be a tighter chamber. I'm a fan of the lesser popular calibers anyway and don't even own a 9mm - Best of luck with your Colt - Bill

[BarryinIN]

Speaking of case ejection, one thing I noticed right away about my DE is the ejection consistency. They land in a tidy little circle. I could almost put a bucket down and catch them.
Maybe I am making a fuss over nothing and it probably doesn't signify a thing as far as the gun's quality, but it sure makes it easy to find the brass.

[harley45]

I agree with all that has been said above, I love my 10mm. I use the Lee 175 grainer over 6.0 grains bulseye as a plinking load and a 200 grain from Mountain Molds as my hunting load. Has worked well so far!


IMG_0129 by White Tiger Photographic, on Flickr

[35remington]

If the Colt Delta comes with a standard radius stop, I would:

1) Toss it immediately, and replace it with a small radius stop, and

2) Go a bit lighter on the recoil spring.

The combination with both increase reliability and reduce battering of the gun. The super heavy springs recommended for the 10 often increase battering and reduce reliability. This is a better way. Clearly.

[Mohillbilly]

My LAR Grizzly eats hot 10mm like gumdrops . the Ruger " Buckeye " can push them even faster .. I also have an old war Remington with a .40 Corbon set that not too shabbie either .

[Love Life]

I'm excited I can't stand it. Of course knowing my luck it will be a jam-o-matic. I have WSF, HP-38, and Unique on hand to play around.

I have the lee 175 gr TC on the way for boolits and I have lotak hard and speed green on standby.

This will be fun!!

[gunfan]

Properly loaded, the 10mm Can (and does) exceed most expectations for the cartridge. While most of the current "factory" loads are seemingly mild at best, some factory loads (Double Tap, Buffalo Bore, et. al.) are loaded near, or to, the power levels of the initial offering from Norma FFV.

This is where the 10mm Auto Pistol Cartridge shines. Alter your pistol to accept the "full power" loads and you will be grateful that you did.

Enjoy.

Scott

[Adam10mm]

Double Tap has been proven to chronograph 200fps less than advertised velocity in all bullet weights. Over priced .40 ammo is what it is.

Love Life, 6.0gr WSF behind the 175gr TC is an excellent range load. Feeds and shoots wonderfully.

[Love Life]

A couple people have suggested changing out springs and other things. Is that really necessary or is that only if I want to feed it a steady diet of buffalo bore loads?

[Adam10mm]

A flat bottom FP stop is ideal. Too many people focus on the recoil spring. A 1911 is not a Glock. The recoil spring has less to do with controlling slide velocity than people think. The mainspring has more to do with it. In my experience, having built and shot a dozen 1911 10mms, 18-20lbs is all you need for a GM or Commander. Anything more than that and the gun is oversprung. I've seen guys try to build their own with a 24lb spring and couldn't rack the slide to chamber a round!

If you're going to run warm ammunition, say 180gr 1100-1200fps, 18 is more than enough for recoil and 23lb for mainspring. Going hotter, like 1300-1400fps, you'll want to go to a 24-25lb mainspring and a 19-20lb recoil to balance it. Increasing the mainspring means you'll have to touch up the internals to smooth the trigger pull again.

For most 10mm ammunition, with the occasional 100-200rds or so of "hot" 1300fps+ loads, an 18lb recoil spring with flat bottom FP stop is all one needs in a GM 1911 10mm. If they run a commander, 20lb with a +1lb mainspring will help, due to the lighter slide and increased velocity over the GM slide. The longer the slide, the less you need. I've built a couple 6 inch Longslide 10mms for customers and they were sprung with a 16lb spring and shoot 180gr bullets at 1500fps. No frame battering.

My gun pictured above has 60,000 rounds through it on that frame between two slide assemblies. No frame battering has occurred. I've had the gun 5 years now.

[Love Life]

Thanks for the info Freakshow10mm. The FP stop is cheap so I will get one of those. I don't plan on shooting full house loads very often. I will shoot them to test for function and gain proficiency with them, but once I get to that stage they will be used for when I am bumming around the desert. My main plinking load will be a middle of the road. More heat than the 40S&W, but not as hot as the 10mm can go. Should be good medicine fo 90% of the things I can come across.

[Alan]

I like the RCBS 180-CM, since I have the 10mm/38-40 Buckeye Ruger. The RNFP shape feeds fine in autos, and it has a properly placed crimp groove if you ever want to run your 38-40's through a lever gun.

[Rafe Covington]

I been shooting a Glock M20 and TC in 10 MM for years, one of my favorite calibers.

Rafe