Lubing Bevel Base Bullets

[Jason30-30]

I have heard that bevel base bullets are a nightmare To lube. Some say it is A mess to run them thru a lubrisizer and some dont. Theres got to be a way to do it maybe pan lube? How do you guys do it?

[williamwaco]

I have heard that bevel base bullets are a nightmare To lube. Some say it is A mess to run them thru a lubrisizer and some dont. Theres got to be a way to do it maybe pan lube? How do you guys do it?

I used to use the Lyman 4500 and just ignore the extra lube. Despite what you have heard it will not "kill" your powder. ( At least not within a year. )

Since I discovered Lee Liquid Alox, I have just about retired the Lyman sizer.



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[462]

I don't consider it a big deal, at all. It takes but a second or two to wipe it off with a rag or paper towel.

[Recluse]

I tumble-lube most of mine.

Exception is my 200SWC for my .45ACP. It has a slight bevel base and I just wipe its little beveled butt on a Scott shop (paper) towel after it comes out of the Lyman 45 and keep on going.

I no longer cast nor reload for quantity anymore, but more for fun, relaxation and the challenge of "building the better cartridge," so any second or two spent extra wiping a base means little to me.

[happy7]

Seriously, just buy a Star. Alternately, send your lyman sizer die to Lathesmith and have him make a new pin that the bullet will fit into.

[WHITETAIL]

You can try a piece of styrofoam tray.

[Cadillo]

You can try a piece of styrofoam tray.

I tried it, and it worked for a short period, but too fragile. I then cut my gaskets from thin cardboard from the boxes that Zip-Loc bags come in. Works so well that I even use them when sizing flat base bullets. All bullets, beveled and flat come out with clean dry bases, and much faster than wiping.

I will though eventually graduate to a Star. Hopefully right after Christmas!

[fishnbob]

Grind the bevel out of the mold and polish 'er up. If it slightly oversized, run 'er through a push thru die first, then lube 'er.

[geargnasher]

If you use a lubrisizer like a Lyman or RCBS, plug all the holes except for the top "plane" of them in the "H" die with solid-core solder cut into short pieces and peened in against the ejector. Set the depth stop to align with the grease groove on the boolit exactly with the holes, or if the boolit has two grooves, align the holes with the band between the grooves, the holes are bigger than most any driving band is wide and the lube will feed to both grooves at once. Use the wrench to only apply pressure once the boolit is in position, then release pressure slightly before ejecting the boolit. Don't get the lube too warm or it will flow too well.

Gear

[Hastings]

I find pan lubing them leaves their bases clean enough. (Grease and beeswax 50/50 mix.) Plus it's fast if you're shooting them as cast without sizing.

[Tumble Bug]

Dittos on both of Happy7's recommendations.

The Star Sizer and bevel base bullets were meant for each other. It is the "best" solution and it's a lot faster too.

If money is a big issue, the Lathesmith suggestion is by far the cheapest.

[303Guy]

Forgive my sinfulness (in using j-words) but since I do and the bore is rust pitted and the rifle is fitted with a non-removable suppressor, I dip lube the bevel base of the j-words into molten 'waxy-lube' so as to lube the bore and coat the inside of the suppressor. I get zero copper fouling with this trick.

[dbldblu]

I then cut my gaskets from thin cardboard from the boxes that Zip-Loc bags come in.

Is this a disk or a ring that you are cutting?

[thehouseproduct]

If you use a lubrisizer like a Lyman or RCBS, plug all the holes except for the top "plane" of them in the "H" die with solid-core solder cut into short pieces and peened in against the ejector. Set the depth stop to align with the grease groove on the boolit exactly with the holes, or if the boolit has two grooves, align the holes with the band between the grooves, the holes are bigger than most any driving band is wide and the lube will feed to both grooves at once. Use the wrench to only apply pressure once the boolit is in position, then release pressure slightly before ejecting the boolit. Don't get the lube too warm or it will flow too well.

Gear

This works especially well with RCBS dies, they have a single row of lube holes.

[Cadillo]

Is this a disk or a ring that you are cutting?

A disc. I take a decapped and unsized case of appropriate caliber and chamfer it inside and out so as to sharpen it. I lay the cardboard on a piece of leather, old belt or other, place the case mouth down on the cardboard and hit it with a small mallet, which cuts a disc of proper size. I cut two or three and then punch them out with paper clip or small stiff wire through the flash hole.

I place the disc on the sizing die plunger shiny side up and then put the bullet on it and size as usual. I find that running the least amount of lube pressure as is possible is a big help. I usually get about sixty bullets sized before I remove and replace the disc.

Sounds like a lot of work, but is a lot better and cleaner than wiping bullet bases in my experience, and definitely faster. I'm using a Lyman 4500 for now, but I so want a Star.

[thehouseproduct]

I recently gave up and took the drill bits to my 452-230-TC. The one test cavity looks pretty bad but after sizing and lubing, I feel they look more than good enough for my purposes.

[Jason30-30]

Thanks Everybobody For The Tips Im Going To Try Them To See How They Work

[Boolseye]

+1 on pan lubing. I like the bevel.

[Lizard333]

be careful about the extra lube that you might have on the base of the bullet. I had enough in a 44 mag round that melted into my case, fouling the powder and cause a squib load. This was no the way I had intended to end my day at the range. My Redhawk was pretty warm and it melted the excess lube into my powder. My advice is to wipe the excess lube, doesn't take but a second to do.

[blikseme300]

+1 on pan lubing. I like the bevel.

Looks just like boolits that went through a Star!

No looking back, 4 Stars.

Bliksem