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Thread: looking for a PID

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
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    looking for a PID

    is their anyone that makes PID's I would like one for my Lee pot but when it comes with working with electricity I stay away from it .I can rebuild a car engine but when it comes to electricity I can change a light bulb. So I was looking for someone that sells them premade

  2. #2
    Boolit Master Wheelguns 1961's Avatar
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    You need to talk to Hatch. I have one of his, and it is great. I think he has a spot in the vendors sellers section.
    Due to the price of primers, warning shots will no longer be given!

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    2nd for Hatch he will set you up.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy
    Slugster's Avatar
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    3rd vote for HATCH. His PID's are great. Actual temperature control!!! Wish I had bought a unit years ago.
    NRA Life 1992
    My avatar is almost a dead ringer for my little buddy Chico. Six pounds of mean that thought he was a Pit Bull. Miss that little guy.

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master
    bangerjim's Avatar
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    Check out the above reference.

    But do NOT be afraid of wiring something as simple as a little 120VAC controller and SSR. Remember, the power is off when you are wiring and unless you are barefoot standing in a bucket of water, 120 is very safe - - - if you follow the simple rules. I do it all the time, even with live 120. Still here after decades of doing it. You just need to be aware of what BOTH of your hands are doing and touching!!!!!!! Simple.

  6. #6
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    HATCH's Avatar
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    assembling a PID is pretty simple.
    Not a whole lot of wiring but the problem is getting quality parts for a price that makes it cost effective compared to prebuilt options offered by myself and others.

    I use Golander 1/32 PID controllers and their matching 25 amp SSR. That are made by the same company that makes Auberins PIDS.

    You could purchase the following

    $36 SYL-1512A pid
    $10 TC-K3MM thermocouple
    $10 SRDA25 SSR

    The above is Auber part #'s

    Then you need a enclosure. a 150x105x55 enclosure can be purchased off Amazon for $17
    Power cord - 6 foot extension cord - Amazon - $10

    That is $83 and you not counting on a switch, crimp connectors, other misc. parts or your time.

  7. #7
    Boolit Bub
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    Is it necessary to add fuses for protecting the PID and SSR?

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy Cast_outlaw's Avatar
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    If your a mechanic you should have no problem wiring up a pid I did mine a week ago the hardest part was making the box at work in the sheet metal shop it’s real simple I’m a roofer and managed it

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
    JWFilips's Avatar
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    inkbird!
    " Associate with men of good quality, if you esteem your own reputation: for it is better to be alone than in bad company. " George Washington

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy dimaprok's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HATCH View Post
    assembling a PID is pretty simple.
    Not a whole lot of wiring but the problem is getting quality parts for a price that makes it cost effective compared to prebuilt options offered by myself and others.

    I use Golander 1/32 PID controllers and their matching 25 amp SSR. That are made by the same company that makes Auberins PIDS.

    You could purchase the following

    $36 SYL-1512A pid
    $10 TC-K3MM thermocouple
    $10 SRDA25 SSR

    The above is Auber part #'s

    Then you need a enclosure. a 150x105x55 enclosure can be purchased off Amazon for $17
    Power cord - 6 foot extension cord - Amazon - $10

    That is $83 and you not counting on a switch, crimp connectors, other misc. parts or your time.
    I bought mypin PID from eBay with 40A SSR for about $25. Thermocouple for about $5. Scavenged power cord from some electronic device and a switch. Build enclosure from scrap plywood. been using it for 5 years now no issues! Oh I did buy the socket in the back for a couple bucks from Home Depot. I also did find a very nice metal enclosure for $3 I'm just too lazy to transfer it. during five years I had one thermocouple fail - that's it! I just bought couple extra for $10


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  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy dimaprok's Avatar
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    Here's the back

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  12. #12
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    HATCH's Avatar
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    Big difference in final product.

    Didn’t say it wasn’t impossible to build cheaply.
    But I will say that stuff isn’t as cheap as it was 5 years ago.


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    Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
    The rules are simple to follow.

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy dimaprok's Avatar
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    Looks good Hatch and compact too. I didn't even realize I was quoting your post lol.

    I think there will always be two groups of people. 1) That will let professional do it right and avoid potential problems, headaches, waste of time and money.
    2) People who like to tinker and do it themselves.





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  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry7293 View Post
    Is it necessary to add fuses for protecting the PID and SSR?
    I don't know if it's necessary but mine has 2 fuses its compulsive behavior I can't help it

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check