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Thread: Removing crimped primers

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
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    Removing crimped primers

    Removing crimped primer pockets..... PITA!!

    I have a Hornady case prep trio, right now I have a chamfer bit, hornady primer reamer bit, and primer pocket cleaner.

    I was just using the hornady reamer bit with the pocket cleaner. It seems to do a good job but its taking forever. The chamfer seems to clean it faster but doesn't leave that reamed edge like the reamer bit. Then I started using all three, reamer, chamfer, and pocket cleaner. Using the reamer for the edge, chamfer for the quick clean, and the pocket cleaner to make it nice and clean in there.

    Am I ruining the brass by doing this? Is it possible to ream the primer pocket to much? All the bits I am using are from Hornady.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

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    It is very possible to ream primer pockets too much. I use the RCBS swager. Very little chance of damaging cases as the brass is being pushed back where it belongs, not cut out. Plus it goes as fast as you can put in a new case and pull the handle.

  3. #3
    Boolit Bub
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    If I spend anymore money on equipment my wife will kick my *** lol, I am trying to use what I have to get by.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master Outpost75's Avatar
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    I use the Lee Universal decapper to remove the crimped primers, then the Dillon swager.

    If you are dealing with huge quantities, this seems the best way to go.

  5. #5
    Boolit Bub
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    Sounds like I will just use my Hornady reamer, I read that it has a stopper that cant ream to much. I will leave the chamfer out of the mix.

  6. #6
    Boolit Bub
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    After this I will only does a few hundred at a time, right now I am doing a little over a thousand rounds, and its getting old quick lol.

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master
    bangerjim's Avatar
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    I use the standard Lee decapping/case forming die for the cal in a single sage press to remove the primer.

    Then use an RCBS primer pocket swager to open up the pocket. Works every time and is sure cheaper than that Dillon thing.


    No................ you cannot do thousands an hour, but I am NOT a production plant! The above simple equipment provides me with more than enough swaged brass to fulfill my needs.

    bangerjim

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    I use the lee depriming tool. wich is drive them out with a hammer and punch. saves on decapping pins. then I swage the pockets. then give them a little campher just enough to break the edge. I also deburr the flash hole inside.

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master

    mdi's Avatar
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    When I first encountered crimped primer pockets my "life long machinist/mechanic" training kicked in. I merely use a countersink to remove the displaced portion of metal at the mouth of the primer pocket. Common sense tells me not to remove 1/8" of metal as just a few thousandths is good so no "damage" from over cutting the pocket. Just a couple twists and/or a half second if the countersink is chucked into my drill press...
    My Anchor is holding fast!

  10. #10
    Boolit Bub
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    The good thing about the Hornady case prep trio is it turns slow, so it wont take a bunch off at once. The other thing is the reamer has a stopper on it so it cant take too much off, it just takes forever. Maybe if I win a upcoming fishing tournament I will buy myself a RCSB swagger for my single stage press.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master



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    Quote Originally Posted by mdi View Post
    When I first encountered crimped primer pockets my "life long machinist/mechanic" training kicked in. I merely use a countersink to remove the displaced portion of metal at the mouth of the primer pocket. Common sense tells me not to remove 1/8" of metal as just a few thousandths is good so no "damage" from over cutting the pocket. Just a couple twists and/or a half second if the countersink is chucked into my drill press...
    ^^^^ My method exactly

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Outpost75 View Post
    I use the Lee Universal decapper to remove the crimped primers, then the Dillon swager.

    If you are dealing with huge quantities, this seems the best way to go.
    Ditto
    NRA Life Member

  13. #13
    Boolit Master Garyshome's Avatar
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    I think I will try RCBS Primer Pocket Swager Combo 2. If I can find one cheap!

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy

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    I use the Dillon super swage. Best $100 I've spent on reloading.

  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I have used lyman reamer, rcbs swager set up, A counter sink, deburring tools ( wilson style), and the dillon swager. For me the dillion is by far the most accurate and fastest to use, but it is a dedicated tool, thats what it was made to do and all its meant to do. Mine has done many thousands of cases over the years. The hornady tools are good and will do the job at hand. I perfer the swage tools over reaming cutting as no metal is removed just "Ironed" back into place. When setting up do a case and prime to insure your getting enouch but not to much. Feel will give a good idea.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master



    shooterg's Avatar
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    Sinclair makes very nice cutters for uniforming primer pockets. I use 'em in the drilldriver , sometimes the odd case may require slight chamfering(rare for me). I also use a flash hole deburrer. This really only needs doing once, for the initial load/reload.

  17. #17
    Boolit Bub
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    For cutting tools, I use the reamer for a couple turns then a vld deburrer for half a turn.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master waco's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cricco View Post
    I use the Dillon super swage. Best $100 I've spent on reloading.
    Amen brother!
    The fear of the Lord is the beginning of knowledge: but fools despise wisdom and instruction.
    Proverbs 1:7

  19. #19
    Boolit Buddy
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    I use a Dillon PP Swager I got at a gun show NIB for 35 bucks. Also got 5 different cal conversions for 10 bucks each. Then I had to buy a 550B loader. The easiest one I ever used. A friend has the RCBS and while it does a good job..it is harder to use.. I used to use the RCBS PP swager that looks somewhat like a reloading die..works but slow

  20. #20
    Boolit Bub
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    I screwed up and put a large primer reamer in instead of a small… Did I just screw up all the brass I just did? I didn't ream it all the way just put lip on there.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check