Need Smith & Wesson trigger help.

Good day to all from Oregun.
I have a S&W model 57 I bought in 1972. I had a deputy sheriff friend who bought it for me (212.50) through the sheriff's dept. I love this revolver. Without going into a great deal of past history, I will get to the point of this thread. There is no over travel when the trigger is pulled. When shooting, it's like the trigger sear or something is bumping up against something and is hard for it to break. Is there an easy way, or an adjustment in the mechanism to create a slight bit of over travel?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I was having a similar problem with my S&W Model 625. Turned out that the strain screw had backed out and was starting to tie the gun up.

Another thought: Back in that time frame it was rather common to put a piece of round stock inside the rebound spring to limit overtravel. Most generally it was a cut and try kinda deal. If someone did that to your gun, it may be a matter of removing a few thousandths off one end.
It is easy enough to check. Remove the rebound spring housing and see if there is a piece of round stock inside the spring. If there is remove it. Reassemble and try the trigger. If you now have some overtravel, take a bit off the end of the round stock, and replace it in the spring. You should then have a reasonable bit of overtravel and an easier pull.

Agree with roysha. GW

https://www.carolinashootersclub.com...l-pics.216903/

If you have an overtravel stop, it can be removed.

Thank you all.
With the information, I think you members have solved the problem. I just have to cautiously get inside the revolver without springs and such flying across the room.

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Originally Posted by littlejack

Thank you all.
With the information, I think you members have solved the problem. I just have to cautiously get inside the revolver without springs and such flying across the room.

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I'm not at all familiar with your pistol , i suspect based on my experience inside pistols your risk of buggering up a side plate to get in is greater than a part yeeting itself unprovoked

After removing the sideplate screws and tapping on the grip frame a few times, the side plate came right off.
Took it all apart. There was no pin/roundstock in the rebound spring.The pin is located in the machined out part of the housing above the trigger. One end of the roundstock is flattened some to allow a hole in it, where it has a cross pin to hold it in place and allow it to swing up or down. The other end of the pin is rounded, and set in a hole in the front end of the rebound slide. On the back of the rebound slide, is where the rebound spring inserts into the rebound slide, and is held in by a small stud in the frame. That rebound spring is really stiff, and I don't know if taking off a couple thousandths on the pin will have much effect. The rebound spring keeps a lot of forward tension on the rebound slide, which in turn pushes very hard on the pin, which in turn pushes forward on the trigger. I did cock the hammer and pull the trigger while watching the amount of overtravel the trigger had. There was virtually no overtravel unless the trigger was pulled back very hard after the sear broke. Going to work on it some more tomorrow.

Alrighty then. That rules out the overtravel pin idea. I think you just have a real heavy rebound spring.

Some years ago I became acquainted with an elderly retired LAPD officer who still had his S&W M-15 revolver that he had carried on duty back in the day. It is/was the only S&W DAO (with external hammer) revolver I have ever had anything to do with. Anyway, it was still exactly in the same condition that it was in when he carried it. He wanted it checked over and cleaned, since he had not fired it in many years. The trigger pull was HEAVY. When I asked about that he said the department had their armorer install heavier springs so there would be, along with the DAO feature, a less likelihood of an accidental discharge. Believe me when I say the pull was HEAVY.

Since your purchase was, if I understand correctly, through a law enforcement officer/agency, I wonder if this could be your situation. Before you remove any metal, clip any springs or do ANY other irreversible modifications, see if you can find a Wolff spring kit and replace the rebound spring with a lighter spring.

The trigger used to be what I called, perfect for me. It was lighter, and crisp. The original barrell had cracked at the forcing cone. I bought another, and had a "so called" gunsmith install it. After screwing in the barrel "to far", he decided to "buff" the front of the cylinder off to get the clearance needed for the cylinder to rotate. NOW THIS IS A FELLA THAT IS QUITE POPULAR IN THE AREA. So, in buffing off the front of the cylinder, the buffing wheel would drag on the front of the chambers and rounded them off. IT GETS WORSE. I had to buy another cylinder. I took the 57 to another gunsmith I had dealt with before about 45 miles away. Unbeknownst to me, there were two different length cylinders for the 57. I had bought the shorter one. My original one was the longer one. The gunsmith had to set the new barrell back to match the shorter cylinder. After he had finished, I went to pick, bit something had changed with the trigger pull. This smith, even went so far as to face off the original "long" cylinder to match the shorter new one. I probably want need it, but I have it just in case. No, after reassembling this morning, it trigger does seen lighter. So, I've decided to leave well enough alone. At the range last week, that revolver shot a six shot group 15/16 x 1 1/2 inches at 50 yards benched. It has a 2x Leupold scope. Lyman 410459 220 grain sized .4102 w/aluminum plain base gc, lubed with 50/50 Gar, over 9 grains of Herco. She's a keeper. Thanks again for all the help.

Glad it's fixed. Nice shooting.